July 4th Spanish Tapas

Beaches are still crowded today so we're cooking again. We loved watching Spain, On the Road Again w/Mario Batali & Gwyneth Paltrow so .......Denis surprised me with a New Year's Eve trip to Barcelona for Christmas in 2009. We had fantastic food and fell in love with the Spanish tapas served everywhere. We decided to try some recipes from Joyce Goldstein's book: Tapas, Sensational Small Plates from Spain. In addition to the recipes I've posted below we also cooked Grilled Green Onions, Artichoke, and Asparagus with Salsa Romesco. The sauce was great and we used it for dipping fritters but we didn't like the veggies. The artichoke cooked like this was way overcooked and we like the way they taste just steamed in the microwave much better. Next time we make this we'll just cook the veggies the way we think they should be prepared and serve with the sauce.

Salsa Romesco (Pepper and Nut Sauce)

Love this sauce! Good paprika is key - the kind sold in the grocery store is usually not very good. We found some at Fresh Market or Whole Foods and it makes a world of difference. I thought I didn't like paprika. Who knew?

Yields: 2.5 cups
Ingredients

2 ancho chiles
1 red bell peppers
½ cup hazelnuts
½ cup blanched almonds (we used 1 cup of the Spanish Marcona almonds and left out the hazelnuts)
4 cloves garlic, chopped (I blanch the raw garlic because I don't like the bitter taste garlic sometimes has)
1 slice bread, fried in olive oil until golden and crisp and torn into pieces (optional)
1½ tablespoons sweet paprika or sweet smoked paprika
½ teaspoon hot paprik or hot smoked paprika
2 tablespoons tomato paste
¼ cup red wine vinegar
¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
salt
Directions

1. Remove the stems and seeds from the ancho chiles and discard. Place the chiles in a small saucepan with water to cover, bring to a boil, remove from the heat, and let steep for 30 minutes. (You may need to weight down the chilis with a small plate to keep them submerged.
2. Roast the bell peppers over the flame of a gas burner, turning as needed, until blistered and charred on all sides (or roast in a broiler). Transfer to a bowl, cover, and let rest for 20 minutes.
3. Preheat the oven to 350. Spread the hazelnuts on a small rimmed baking sheet and toast in the oven, stirring occasionally, until they are fragrant and then rub vigorously until most of the skins are removed (tiny flecks are okay), and then let cool. Toast the almonds on a separate baking sheet until fragrant and golden, about 8 minutes. Pour onto a plate to cool.
4. Drain the chiles, tear into small pieces, and place in a small bow. Peel the roasted peppers with your fingers, scraping off any stubborn pieces with a paring knife (a few flakes clinging to the peppers are okay), and discard the seeds and thick membranes. Cut the peppers into medium-sized pieces. Add to the ancho chiles.
5. In a blender or food processor, combine the hazelnuts, almonds, garlic, and bread, if using, and pulse un til finely ground. Add the chiles and peppers, sweet and hot paprika, tomato paste, and vinegar and process to combine. With the machine running, slowly pour in the olive oil and process until the mixture emulsifies. Season to taste with salt and then adjust with more vinegar and/or hot paprika if needed.
6. Transfer to a tighly covered container and refrigerate until needed. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Notes about the alioli recipe that follows. This was a huge failure the first time around. Don't use lemons that have had the peel removed or extra virgin olive oil. I did both the first go round. The alioli was a beautiful light yellow and emulsified perfectly. When we tasted, it was bitter and strong. We realized that the lemon pith had been transferred into the mixture when I squeezed it and that canola oil would have been a better choice. I hadn't realized we had some in the pantry. The second batch was absolutely perfect!


Alioli - Spanish Garlic Mayonniase

From: Tapas, Sensational Small Plates from Spain, Joyce Goldstein

Alioli, which was introduced to Spain by the Romans, is equally claimed by Levante and Catalonia. It is used for dipping or for spreading with a variety of tapas, including Fritos, Bunuelos De Bacalao, Montaditos, fish and shellfish, rice and noodles, meat, and vegetables. In some parts of Catalonia, it is enhanced by the addition of honey, ground walnuts, or pureed quince, apples, or pears. The fruit versions are served with grilled or roasted meats, chicken, rabbit, and even with Croquetas De Jamon.

Originally, no eggs were used in the sauce. Instead, garlic was crushed to a paste with salt and then mixed with olive oil and thickened with a small amount of bread crumbs. But the emulsion is quite fragile and you need a good deal of elbow grease to produce a successful version that doesn’t break. Nowadays, egg yolks are added, which simplifies the preparation and turns the sauce into a garlic mayonnaise. The egg yolk version can be made in a mortar with a pestle, the traditional tools, or more easily in a food processor. In either case, all of the ingredients should be at room temperature. The flavor of most extra virgin olive oil is too strong for an all-purpose sauce, so I advise a milder virgin or pure olive oil, or a mixture of extra virgin olive oil and canola oil. The oil must be added drop by drop (a plastic squeeze bottle works well) while beating-or processing- constantly until an emulsion forms. You can then add the balance of the oil in a thin, steady stream.

Yields: 1.8 cups
Ingredients

About 6 cloves garlic
Kosher salt
2 large egg yolks (see note)
3 to 4 tablespoons lemon juice, divided
About 1½ cups pure olive oil or ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil plus ¾ cup canola oil
Directions

1. Have all ingredients at room temperature. Peel garlic; cut away and discard any green shoots. Chop enough garlic to measure 1 tablespoon. In a mortar, combine garlic and a big pinch of salt; with pestle, grind to a fine paste.

2. Drop egg yolks into a blender or food processor. Add 1 to 2 tablespoons lemon juice; process until blended. With machine running, add oil, a few drops at a time, until mixture begins to emulsify, then keep adding oil until mixture is the consistency of a thick mayonnaise. Pulse in most of the garlic. Pulse in the remaining lemon juice and more garlic and salt to taste.

3. Transfer to a tightly covered container; refrigerate until needed.

Note: This recipe contains raw eggs; to eliminate the possibility of food poisoning, use Davidson’s eggs, which are pasteurized in the shell.

Per tablespoon: 110 calories; 12g fat (98 percent calories from fat); 1.5g saturated fat; 15mg cholesterol; no protein; 0.5g carbohydrate; no sugar; no fiber; 10mg sodium; 3mg calcium; 5mg potassium.

You absolutely have to try these! So yummy. Denis used panko for the bread crumbs. They were light, crunchy and gooey all in one bite.

Ham and Cheese Croquettes (Croquetas De Jamon Y Queso)

At tapas bars all over Spain, locals are quick to try the house-made croquetas, often a signature dish of the chef. They are typically bit-sized morsels with a crunchy golden crust of eggs and bread crumbs enclosing a creamy filling dotted with pieces of chicken, ham, shellfish, spinach, or cheese. This recipe makes a large batch, ideal for a party. You can cut it in half, or you can make the full recipe, deep-fry some of the croquettes, and store the rest in the refrigerator for frying at another time. They will keep nicely for up to 3 days.

These croquettes can be served just as they are. Some cooks like to serve them with alioli for dipping. Because there is ham in the mixture, I prefer an alioli lightly sweetened with quince.

Yields: 36 croquettes
Ingredients

3 cups whole milk
½ cup (4 ounces) unsalted butter
½ cup minced onion (optional)
⅔ cup all-purpose flour
Freshly grated nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups finely diced full-flavored cheese such as Manchego, Maho, or Gruyere (5 to 6 ounces)
½ cup (2 to 3 ounces) chopped serrano ham
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or other herb of choice (optional)
About 1 cup all-purpose flour
2 large eggs
About 1 cup fine dried bread crumbs
Canola or peanut oil for deep-frying
Directions

1. To make the Croquette Base: In a saucepan, bring the milk just to a simmer over medium heat and remove from the heat. While the milk is heating, in another saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Add the onion, if using, and cook, stirring often, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the flour, stir well to combine, and cook, stirring constantly, for a few minutes. A very thick, smooth paste will form. Gradually add the hot milk to the flour paste while stirring constantly. Then continue to cook, stirring constantly, until a very thick bechamel sauce forms, about 3 minutes. Season to taste with the nutmeg, slat, and pepper. Remove from the heat and fold in the cheese, ham, and parsley, if using. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
2. Oil a 9-inch square pan. Pour or spoon the croquette base into it and spread it out to cool. (I pat it down with my hands, but you can use a rubber spatula or the back of a spoon.) Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until well chilled, about 2 hours.
3. To assemble and fry the Croquettes: Place 1 large or 2 small wire racks on a baking sheet, or line a baking sheet with parchment paper, and place on a work surface. Arrange 3 shallow bowls near the baking sheet. Put the 1 cup flour in the first bowl, lightly beat the eggs with 2 tablespoons water in the second bowl, and put the bread crumbs in the third bowl. Dip a tablespoon in cold water and scoop up some of the croquette mixture. With wet hands, roll it into a 1½-inch ball or into the traditional torpedo shape, about 2 inches long. Drop it into the flour, roll it around, and shake off the excess. Then dip it into the eggs, allowing the excess egg to drip off, and finally drop it into the bread crumbs, again rolling to coat and shaking off the excess crumbs. Set on the rack or lined pan. Repeat until all of the croquette mixture is used up. Refrigerate the croquettes until well chilled, about 2 hours.
4. POur the oil to a depth of 3 inches into a deep, heavy saucepan and heat to 360 on a deep-frying thermometer. Carefully slip a few croquettes into the hot oil and fry until golden, about 3 minutes. Using a wire skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer to an ovenproof platter lined with paper towels to drain, and keep batches of the croquettes warm in a low oven until all of the croquettes are fried.
5. Arrange the croquettes on a warmed platter and serve at once.

Variations: This basic croquette base can be flavored in other ways. Omit the ham and cheese and add 1 cup well-drained mashed olive oil-packed canned tuna; ½ pound cooked ham, chopped, 1½ cups chopped cooked shrimp (about ½ pound), 1½ cups chopped well seasoned cooked chicken, or ½ cup chopped fresh herbs of choice.

Note: Some cooks like to cut out shapes, rather than roll the croquette base into balls or the traditional torpedoes. Line the pan with plastic wrap, allowing the edges to overhang the sides, spread the croquette base in the lined pan, and chill as directed. Invert the pan onto a work surface, lift off the pan, and peel away the plastic wrap. Cut the slab into rounds or other shapes with a cookie or biscuit cutter or a knife. Fry as directed.

These are also seriously good and can be made ahead.


Sausage-Stuffed Mushrooms

From author, Joyce Goldstein: The most common stuffing for this popular tapa mixes sausage or ham, onion, garlic, and the chopped stems from the mushrooms. The stuffed mushrooms are then topped with cheese, bread crumbs, or a mixture, and baked. Sauteing the mushroom caps in oil to soften them a bit before they are stuffed helps them to cook more evenly in the oven.

For this stuffing, I buy semi-cured chorizo, grind it in a food processor, and then saute it with the onions and stems for a few minutes. If you can only find dry chorizo, chop it very finely in the processor and saute it only briefly with the onion and stems to infuse the stuffing with its pronounced flavor. (If you can’t find either type of chorizo, use ½ pound ground pork and season it with 2 teaspoons sweet smoked paprika, ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, and 1 tablespoon minced garlic.) Any leftover filling is a great addition to scrambled eggs.

Yields: 6 servings
Ingredients

12 large cultivated white mushrooms, about 2 inches in diameter
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 tablespoons finely minced onion
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
¼ cup minced serrano ham (optional)
¼ pound semicured chorizo, ground in a food processor
¼ cup toasted or fresh bread crumbs
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, thyme, or marjoram
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup grated Manchego cheese (optional)
Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 400. Carefully remove the stems from the mushrooms, and chop the stems finely. (You can do this in a processor, pulsing to chop.) You will need ½ to ⅔ cups chopped stems.
2. In a saute pan, warm the oil over medium-high heat. Add the mushroom caps in batches and brown briefly on both sides, about 4 minutes total. Transfer to a cazuela or shallow baking dish, hollow-side up, and set aside.
3. Wipe out the saute pan and melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and stems and cook, stirring, until the stems are wilted, about 3 minutes. Add the ham, if using, and chorizo and cook, stirring, until the chorizo is cooked; about 3 minutes. Stir in the bread crumbs and parsley, and season to taste with salt and pepper, keeping in mind that the ham will give off more salt in the heat of the oven.
4. Spoon the mixture into the mushroom caps, mounding it slightly. Sprinkle evenly with the cheese, if using. (The mushrooms can be prepared up to this point 4 to 8 hours in advance, covered, and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before baking.)
5. Bake until the cheese is melted and the mushrooms are hot and bubbling about 15 minutes. Serve from the cazuela or transfer to a platter and serve hot or warm.

Variations: Add ¼ cup chopped toasted almonds to the stuffing with the parsley. Or, omit the cheese and add a pinch of ground cinnamon and 1 tablespoon grated orange zest with the chorizo.

I've looked for dry-packed scallops forever and can never find them. Is it sad that finding them today at Publix was such a big deal??? At any rate, there is a big difference and they were delicious prepared Galician style.


Scallops, Galician Style (Vieiras A La Gallega)

Tapas, Sensational Small Plates from Spain, Joyce Goldstein

The scallop shell is the symbol of the Galician pilgrimage town of Santiago de la Compostela and of Saint James the Apostle, whose remains are entombed there. The tale behind how the scallop shell came to symbolize the town and the saint varies, but a common story explains tht Saint James rescued a knight from downing, and when the knight emerged from the water, his armor was covered with scallop shells.

This dish is quite rich, so allow 4 scallops per person. Scallops are often soaked in a solution of tripolyphosphate, which adds to their weight and makes them appear as if they are covered in a milky white liquid. Look for untreated sweet-smelling dry-packed scallops, sometimes labeled diver scallops.

Yields: 4 servings
Ingredients

16 sea scallops, preferbly dry pack, tough side muscle removed
1 lemon, halved
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 ounces serrano ham or bacon, chopped
1 cup dry white wine
2 teaspoons sweet paprika (optional)
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup fine dried bread crumbs
Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 400.
2. Divid the scallops evenly among the prepared cazuelitas and squeeze of bit of fresh lemon juice over them. Refrigerate until the sauce is ready.
3. In a frying pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and ham and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is very soft, about 15 minutes. Add the wine and cook until reduced by half, ab out 5 minutes. Stir in the paprika, if using, and parsley, and season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat.
4. Spoon the sauce evenly over the scallops, and then sprinkle evenly with the bread crumbs. Bake until the scallops are barely opaque at the center, the sauce is bubbling, and the bread crumbs are golden brown, about 15 minutes. Serve at once.

And last but not least! Yes, it was over the top, but we had nothing but time and ingredients. Leftovers were really good.

Potatoes and Chorizo, Rioja Style

This lovely cazuela of potatoes and chorizo is ideal for sharing. I use a semi-cured chorizo that produces a contrast in textures between the tender potatoes and the chewy sausage that is particularly interesting Modern chefs typically cut everything into a uniform size, but you can opt for more rustic random cuts on both the chorizo and the potatoes. i have tasted a version of this recipe made without chorizo, but it lacks the great flavor the sausage imparts to the pan juices.

Yields: 4 servings
Ingredients

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
1 pound russet potatoes (2 large) peeled and cut into 1-inch-thick slice or large dice
6 ounces chorizo, preferably semi-cured, cut into ½-inch-thick slices
1 small onion, chopped
2 red bell peppers or 1 red and 1 green, seeded and chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 small fresh chile, seeded and minced )optional)
1 teaspoon sweet paprika or sweet smoked paprika
½ cup water or dry white wine, or as needed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish
Directions

1. In a large frying pan, heat the 3 tablespoons oil over medium heat. Add the potatoes and saute until pale gold, 10 to 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a large plate. Add the chorizo to the oil remaining in the pan and fry over medium heat, until golden, adding more oil if the chorizo begins to stick, about 5 minutes. Using the slotted spoon, transfer to the plate with the potatoes.
2. Add the onion to the oil and drippings in the pan and saute over medium heat until golden, 12 to 15 minutes. Add the bell peppers, garlic, chile, if using, and paprika and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes longer to blend the flavors.
3. Return the sausage and potatoes to the pan and add the water. Cover and cook over low heat until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. If the pan seems dry, add a bit more water.
4. Remove from the heat, season with salt and pepper, and transfer to a cazuela or other dish for serving. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve warm.

Variation: Just before removing from the heat, whisk 2 large eggs, lightly beaten, into the pan to thicken the juices.